29 Aug 2013

Trains, Rain, Spirit & Splendour Part 1: Insert 3 Gokarna Adventures

 30th December 2012 - 2nd January 2013

It is an unnerving thing only being able to hear through my right ear, an experience that has fittingly propelled me into silence and observation. All that floating about got the better of my eardrums! All connections seem dim and I feel like a drifting snowflake, waiting to evaporate comfortably and quietly. Silence has come to greet me in one of the strangest ways.

We spent our days in the market places, in the streets full of well decorated travelling (and some now settled) hippies. The gaze from under their Shiva scarf hoods, penetrating your own, speaking of a time where there is no time but the present, only their life unfolding and blending into the dusty ochre alleys of this holy town.

Gokarna (meaning 'Cows Ear' )  is one of the most sacred sites in India and is better known as a pilgrimage town more than a tourist destination. Walking through the streets towards the beach, we passed a huge wooden 'float' which was still draped in its colourful decorations from a recent festival. I tasted the first juices of my coconut and got lost in shops full of silk & patterns.

First Ganesha Shrine! 



Wooden Float
Coconut!


Ommmmm

Om Beach, can you see it? 


We arranged a banquet to welcome in the new year, feasting on a variety of delicious curries and vegetable basmati, followed by Om Shanti Cafe's infamous 'Chocolate balls' and their coconut lassies (which we spiked with Old Monk Rum! ) . We walked to the neighboring Kudle Beach and found ourselves lost in rice paddies searching for a party, I managed to break my sandals and we wandered back to our own beach through the throngs of Indian tourists & international ones alike, to catch the wild show of fireworks in the sky; and then came Shiva's rain to wash us into the new year as we stood on the shore, wild waves lapping our toes and putting fire spinning poi dancers to rest.

New Years  Banquet with new friends

_________

The day following the debauchery of New Years we wandered up and over the hillsides to Paradise beach. We passed white skinned, barely clothed families on the rocks, new born babies being cradled under shady palm trees, a strange phenomenon, but beautiful and simple and real. We swam in the wild waters for a while and decided to take a boat taxi back to Om Beach. The most exquisite red sun, setting on the horizon. Emotions stirring softly as I begin to open myself to all the wonders of love and exploration.

That night, Ilana cut my golden locks, a ritual of cleansing to release the old year. We wandered back to a very quiet Kudle Beach, instruments and high spirits in tow. We sang and made music together, lying beneath the 3/4 moonshine and studded starlight. I let myself unfold and dance, deepen and sink into the sand and into movement. A feeling of the glimmer of freedom I seek to indulge in. We ended the night in a sacred, skin baring bath in the (now quiet) ocean, I swear I felt the presence of Shiva. Destruction.Creation. Masculine. Feminine. Fire. Water.
Divine Red Sunset

Feeling legendary on our sunset boat taxi


Chopped Locks

Old Monk Rum!


In the wake of this new cleanse we sadly packed our bags and dished out our rupees, waving goodbye to our temporary hut homes. Just a few days had felt like a few weeks. Now onto Madgoan and then to Happy Hippie Hampi!!!
Gokarna Train Station

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